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Thursday, October 1, 2015

Chinese Pork and Mustard Green Soup

In a lot of authentic Chinese restaurants, you might come across a pork and mustard greens soup. I tried it recently, figuring it would be exotic. It wasn't. Bland, floating in artificial chicken broth, the greens just looked up at me plaintively and forgotten, as if saying "is this how it all ends?"

To which I say "no." This is the day your life truly begins, mustard greens. Because I have scoured the far-off land of the internet in search of a better recipe that will avenge your death. A recipe with more than four ingredients, that might elevate our lowly mustard greens to something more satisfying, more vibrant, and certainly more memorable. I found it in Bon Appetit's coverage of this dish and, being the first recipe I had seen with more than a small handful of the most obvious ingredients, gave it a try.

What was produced was arguably one of the finest soups I have ever made. Light, simple, yet remarkably flavorful, this soup delivered an exotic aroma and a complexity that was almost surprising, given the speed with which it was produced and the simple ingredient list. I highly recommend seeking out a few key ingredients - true Sichuan peppercorns, half decent chicken broth, and fresh baby mustard greens, which can be found at farmer's markets around this time of year, and which deliver the appropriate amount of bitter tang and crunch that you won't get from spinach, kale, or any of the other soup-friendly greens. Go with a low-sodium chicken stock like Kitchen Basics, or make your own, which will be even better (and also even lower in sodium).

Update 5/25: Now having made this dish a few dozen times, I revised this process to get maximum heat into the pork to aid in browning without burning the spices and aromatics. Also, this is equally good with turnip greens, which you may end up with if you grow turnips or get a bunch from the farmer’s market and have the tops left over. We blanch our greens in 4 cup batches and throw that whole pack right into this soup, which is really helpful for making the most of spring and fall harvest.


Left to right - homemade Chinese chicken stock with ginger and scallions, browning the pork just after spices were added, and prepared noodles tossed in oil (in this case wheat-based)






Chinese Spicy Pork and Mustard Green Soup
Modified from Bon Appetit, Jan. 2014
Updated May 2025

  • ½ pound ground pork
  • 2 cloves garlic finely chopped
  • 2 teaspoons finely grated peeled ginger
  • 1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns, crushed
  • ¾ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
  • ½ teaspoon cumin seeds, coarsely chopped
  • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground white (or black if you don’t have it) pepper
  • 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
  • 1 bunch mustard greens, torn (about 4 cups)
  • 4 scallions, white parts in 1” lengths, green parts thinly sliced
  • 2 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 1 teaspoon Thai fish sauce
  • 8 oz. wide rice noodles
  • 1/4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar or black vinegar, for serving

Depending on preference, toast and grind the dried spices - Sichuan peppercorns, chile flakes, and cumin.

Mix ginger, Sichuan peppercorns, chile flakes, and cumin in a medium bowl. Heat oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add pork and green onion white parts and cook, stirring and breaking up with a spoon, until starting to brown, 4-5 minutes. Reduce temperature to medium if the pork is frying well, otherwise leave on medium-high to keep moisture out of the pan. Add ginger/spice mix and cook for another 1-2 minutes to incorporate. Just before adding broth, reduce heat to medium and add minced garlic, stir, and cook for no more than one minute, avoiding burning it.

Add broth and bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer until flavors meld, 5 minutes. Add mustard greens, soy sauce, and fish sauce and cook, stirring occasionally, until greens are tender, 5–8 minutes; season with salt and white or black pepper.

Meanwhile, cook noodles according to package directions; drain. If desired, rinse noodles until cool, drain, then toss in either a neutral oil or a garlic- or shallot-infused oil. Divide noodles among bowls and ladle soup over. Garnish with green part of green onions. Serve with a small bowl of vinegar tableside, possibly with Japanese togarashi seasoning as well if you want more kick.

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