Savory Rosemary Gruyere Bread Pudding

Back when the Food Channel still had cooking shows, I remember watching an episode of Emeril Live where he made savory cheesecakes.  And I thought, "we need to tell the Cheesecake Factory, they're sitting on a gold mine".  While I have still never seen one in person, I started questioning all of my dessert beliefs: can I eat this earlier in the meal, before I hate myself?  Can't I find a way to avoid a diabetes-inducing amount of sugar and still have a delicious baked good?  And, most importantly, can I find a way to put more bacon in this?

And now, you can.  As I was staring down about $5 of unused, questionable rosemary bread from the farmer's market, The idea struck me like a stale loaf of bread to the dome.  This was not to be another farmer's market total loss.  So I sliced the bread up into large cubes in anticipation of my further pleasure.

What ensued was, quite possibly, one of the most delicious things I have ever made.  Crispy, rich, smoky, and with that pine forest smell from the rosemary both baked into the bread and freshly added to the dish, you could easily get lost in this "pudding", which I would describe as either the best stuffing you've ever had, or a meal that combines the best of breakfast, dinner, and dessert.

I will confess that I lifted a few components of this recipe from a fellow blogger here, but then went and updated with a better process and a few ingredients, not the least of which is bacon.  I highly recommend you do two things - use stale bread (slice it up one day before it's too hard to slice, then cube it and leave it in a bowl to dry), and let the custard mixture soak into the bread for at least 8 hours.


Rosemary-Gruyere Bread Pudding

• 5 cups of cubed, stale Rosemary or French bread, crusts removed
• 1 tablespoon butter, plus more for greasing pan
• 3/4 cup chopped sweet yellow onion such as Vidalia
• 1/4 cup of chopped shallots, or 1 large
• 1 teaspoon of minced garlic, about 2 cloves
• 1 tablespoon of chopped fresh rosemary
• 1 teaspoon of salt
• 1 healthy pinch of black pepper
• 2 thick-cut slices bacon, preferably applewood smoked
• 1.5 cups of milk (I used 2%)
• 1 cup of heavy cream
• 4 eggs, beaten lightly
• 1 cup of coarsely grated Gruyere cheese, separated in half

A few days to a few hours before, cube the bread into 1" cubes and place in a bowl to dry.  Toast bread cubes just before using to remove remaining moisture and brown slightly, and place in a large bowl.  In a medium bowl, beat eggs and add in milk and cream.

Toasted bread cubes, next to the egg custard soak.  Treat this as you would a delicious pan perdu, or French toast

In a large saute pan, melt butter and cook onion and shallots over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 3-5 minutes.  Add some of the salt partway through to pull out some moisture.  Now add rosemary and garlic and stir in for 1 minute.  Remove all from pan, and cook bacon until slightly crispy.  Drain on paper towels, then chop bacon into 1/4" pieces.

Into a large bowl, place toasted bread cubes, vegetable mixture, bacon pieces, egg - milk custard mixture, and half of the cheese.  Toss well to combine but don't stir so aggressively that you break up the bread cubes.  Cover with plastic wrap and place in fridge for 1-8 hours.

Before the long rest and soak

After an 8 hour rest in the fridge.  Totally soaked up the egg mixture, fat and happy and ready for the oven

When ready to cook, grease an appropriate casserole with butter, and heat oven to 350 F.  Lightly spoon in bread pudding mixture into the dish (do not pack this in tightly, it will get mushy), and place in oven, uncovered, for 40 minutes.  After 40 minutes, top with remaining grated cheese, and return to oven for 10-15 minutes longer, until browned and melted.  Allow to cool for 15 minutes and serve.

Served simply, where the bread pudding can be the star

Walnut Rosemary Oven-Fried Chicken

If you've been reading along routinely, you know that I'm trying to work my way through a recent purchase of a massive quantity of chicken tenders, obtained basically off the back of a truck in the hopes that I could learn how to make the perfect 'boneless wing'.  Well it turns out that frying chicken for every meal isn't very healthy, so I have been thinking about alternative, healthier methods to fill the gaps between random bouts of "fry everything", which often end both deliciously and with chest pains.

Consider instead this oven-fried chicken, soaked in buttermilk, breaded lightly with an amazing and fragrant assortment of herbs, nuts, and other crunchy bits, and then baked rather than fried but with fantastic results.  I would by no means call this a compromise from a fried chicken finger, but I wouldn't even put it in the same category.  These are so good that I hate even putting any of my traditional chicken finger condiments on them, although a nice honey mustard might complement them fairly well.  So thank you, Cooking Light, for helping me stay alive just a little bit longer.

Oven-frying is an excellent, healthy alternative to deep frying

Walnut and Rosemary Oven-Fried Chicken
Cooking Light, June 2010

• 1/4 cup low-fat buttermilk
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 4 (6-ounce) chicken cutlets
• 1/3 cup panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)
• 1/3 cup finely chopped walnuts
• 2 tablespoons grated fresh Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
• 3/4 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
• 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• Cooking spray
• Rosemary leaves (optional)

Preheat oven to 425°.

Combine buttermilk and mustard in a shallow dish, stirring with a whisk.  Add chicken to buttermilk mixture, turning to coat.

Get your breading ingredients together

Heat a small skillet over medium-high heat.  Add panko to pan; cook 3 minutes or until golden, stirring frequently.  Combine panko, nuts, and next 4 ingredients (through pepper) in a shallow dish.  Remove chicken from buttermilk mixture; discard buttermilk mixture.  Dredge chicken in panko mixture.

Toast your bread crumbs briefly in a dry skillet

Toss this mixture together and bring the chicken nearby

Toss tenders to coat, then place on a baking rack set over a sheet pan.

Arrange a wire rack on a large baking sheet; coat rack with cooking spray.  Arrange chicken on rack; coat chicken with cooking spray.  Bake at 425° for 13 minutes or until chicken is done.  Garnish with rosemary leaves, if desired.

Serve plain, with sweet chili sauce, or with a honey mustard sauce

Roast Leg of Lamb with Potatoes and Onions

If you haven't tried cooking lamb, you're missing out.  A good leg of lamb is moist, rich, tender, with just a hint of a wild game flavor, and it takes to garlic and rosemary with dignity.  I made this dish years ago and it was so mouthwatering that I ate it out of the tupperware with my bare hands, like an animal, for probably a solid week afterwards.  Not that this is the raving endorsement you should be looking for, but I thought it was a pretty good story.  Cheers to my housemate for taking some very artistic shots this time, but jeers to him for making me realize that I need a better camera.

Ready to be sliced and served

Roasted Leg of Lamb with Potatoes and Onions
(Gigot D'Agneau Aux Pommes De Terre Et Oignons) 
Bon Appétit, May 1999

Serves 6 to 8

• 1 6- to 7-pound bone-in leg of lamb, excess fat trimmed 
• 3 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme or 1 1/2 teaspoons dried
• 2 teaspoons minced fresh savory or 1 teaspoon dried
• 1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary or 3/4 teaspoon dried
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 3/4 teaspoon ground black pepper 
• butter for roasting pan
• 3 1/2 pounds russet potatoes, unpeeled, cut into 1/4-inch-thick rounds
• 2 1/2 pounds onions, thinly sliced (about 8 cups)
• 1 3/4 cups beef stock or canned beef broth 

If you have a food processor, I highly recommend using it to slice the potatoes and onions.  It gives you a perfectly even cut and saves 10 minutes of manual labor.

Ready your root vegetables.  A bed of potatoes and onions serve to cushion the lamb against burning, and absorb the drippings

Preheat oven to 400°F. Using small sharp knife, cut 1-inch-deep, 1/2-inch-long slits all over lamb. Cut up the garlic into thin slices and insert garlic into slits in the lamb. Rub oil all over lamb. Mix thyme, savory, rosemary, salt and pepper in small bowl. Rub herb mixture all over lamb. Set aside. 

Get the garlic deep down into the slits in the meat

Fresh thyme and rosemary really make this dish.  If you don't have fresh rosemary, don't even bother this time.

  

Grease up that lamb!

Rub the herb mixture all over the surface of the lamb

Generously butter large roasting pan. Combine potatoes, onions and stock in large pot (stock will not cover vegetables). Bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until potatoes are halfway tender, about 10 minutes. Transfer potato mixture to prepared pan; spread evenly in pan.

Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 375°F. Place lamb in roasting pan atop potato mixture. Roast until thermometer inserted into thickest part of lamb registers 130°F. for medium-rare, about 1 hour 50 minutes. Remove from oven. Tent with foil and let stand 15 minutes. 

Thinly slice lamb. Arrange lamb on large platter. Surround with potato mixture and any juices from pan and serve. 

Shepherd's Pie

If the British are known for one thing in their cooking, it's for being about as exciting as a toothache.  But if you like meat and potatoes, forget about going anywhere else, because these folks have this market cornered.  Bangers and mash, kippers and neeps (technically a turnip, but same deal), shepherd's pie, meat pasties - you name it, and folks from the mother land have taken a stab at it.  And by and large, they screwed it up.

That's right, I said it.  I entertain your rebuttal in the comments.  Despite this, I still like British food, because sometimes a man needs to just eat a bunch of meat, served in stew form, with naught but the most basic of flavors.  But in searching for a good Shepherd's Pie recipe, I came across some that I might feed to a dog, but none that I would feed to a diner who wants more than just 'people food'.  So I had to borrow from the French and add some flavor to the recipes, as well as adjust the preparation method to get the most out of the different ingredients.  I even tried to get fancy and pipe my potatoes on the top of the stew, but that didn't quite work out, as we shall see.

Shepherd's Pie is a simple recipe, consisting of a meat stew with a mashed potato crust.  To be proper, I actually made a "Cottage Pie", since shepherd's don't really raise beef but mutton or lamb, but nobody calls it that so I'll stick to my guns on this one.  The dish came about as a way to spread the usage of the potato as an edible staple for the poor in England - kind of like the American history of corn syrup (or, if you go back far enough, whiskey), but a little bit more wholesome.

The finished Shepherd's Pie, with one serving briefly removed and replaced before I remembered to take a picture

Shepherd's (actually, Cottage) Pie
from nowhere in particular, designed by me for a change

• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1 large onion, peeled and chopped
•  2 medium carrots, peeled and chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1.5 pound ground lamb or beef
• 1 cup beef or chicken broth (use good stuff if you can - I used homemade stock)
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh or dry rosemary (fresh is greatly preferred)
• 1 cup dry red wine
• 1 cup frozen peas
• salt and pepper, to taste

For the potatoes:

• 2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1/2 cup milk (any fat content)
• Kosher salt to taste

 

Get your ingredients ready.  The list is fairly short.  If you have mashed potatoes left over from something else, the list becomes even shorter.

Grind your meat with a coarse blade.  You don't have a meat grinder?  Maybe your butcher will do it for you, if you flash a little skin.

These three ingredients represent the shortcomings of English food - aromatics, and complex flavors.  Garlic, rosemary, and red wine turn this from mess hall chow to something you could serve to a weary chef.  Or shepherd, I suppose.

Preheat oven to 375°F.

In a large sauté pan over high heat, heat the oil and brown the meat in 1-2 batches.  Season with salt and pepper during browning, and be sure to keep the heat high and not just boil the meat.  You want to see some brown bits, even if it means things sticking to the pan for a while.  Meanwhile, bring the potatoes to a boil in salted water. Cook until tender, about 20 minutes; drain.

To the pan with meat, add the onion and carrot, and cook until softened, 3-4 minutes.  Add garlic, and cook until moisture has been released from onions and carrots are beginning to soften, another 4 minutes.  Add the red wine and boil until liquid is mostly evaporated, 4-5 minutes.  Add the broth, tomato paste, and rosemary, and reduce the heat.  Simmer until the juices thicken, about 10 minutes, then add the peas.

Here's the mix, after reducing out the wine, browning the meat, and adding all of the vegetables and aromatics.

Mash the potatoes with the butter, milk, and salt, and set aside.  If you want to pipe them, prepare a piping bag after letting the potatoes cool slightly, and get a tip that will let you dispense a good bit of potato at once.  Or, use my cheap method:

Don't have a piping bag?  Use a zip-top.  Just put the potato in...

...twist the bag to squeeze the potato down to the corner, and then cut off the corner and pipe.  Focus on putting pressure on the bag from the top, with the part of your hand between your thumb and index finger.  Keep twisting the bag to keep air out of the piping section.

So close!  But I ran out at the end, and had to spread the potato on after all of the effort.  Next time I might put a real tip on the bag to get something that doesn't look like a bunch of uncooked breadsticks, or something worse.

Spread or pipe the potatoes over the meat mixture, then crosshatch the top with a fork.  Bake until golden, 30 to 35 minutes.

The 'pie', after dragging a fork to create a nice browning surface

The finished pie, not quite as browned as I would like, but every bit as delicious as a hearty French stew

Steel-cut Oat Risotto with Chicken Peppers and Manchego

Have you had steel-cut oats yet?  If not, has someone been bugging you about it?  You should listen to that person, because they're awesome, and people say they're more healthy due to the minimal processing.  Steel-cut oats are more chewy than regular oatmeal, as they are more coarsely cut and served.  They therefore require extra cooking time, much more like a rice or barley.  So naturally, someone thought to use steel-cut oats to replace arborio or carnaroli rice in risotto, with amazing results.

Did you know that replacing you just 3 cups of gravy per day with steel-cut oats will lower your cholesterol?

For the record, a quick search online didn't conclusively prove that there are any nutritional differences between rolled oats and steel-cut oats, as both glycemic index and in nutritional value are almost identical, and I haven't seen anything on the degradation of vitamins caused by steaming and toasting the grains first.  And neither can I find any results showing that steel-cut oats are better for you than arborio rice, with the exception of 4x the dietary fiber and slightly fewer carbs per serving (27 g compared to 36 g in a 1/4 cup).  But let's go back to pretend-land where the health food industry is always right, and where we think that steel-cut oats are another of nature's new panaceas, and move on with this awesome recipe.

I followed this recipe to the letter, with the only exception of using breast meat chicken instead of dark, because that's what I had.  And I went with a 9 month aged Manchego cheese.  Manchego is a deliciously tart sheep's milk cheese with little holes in it, aged similarly to a Parmesan but not nearly as long.  The younger ones are more soft, so I went with a middle of the road aging to cut down on costs.  I think I struck the right balance.

A nice piece of 9 Manchego cheese, about to meet a painful end

Now, we're actually going to do some cooking here - this is risotto, not some slow cooker, easy-bake oven recipe where you barely do anything.  Risotto's not one of those "yes Mr. Telemarketer, I do have a few minutes to talk about my current long distance plan" kind of dishes - you need to be attentive.  In risotto, you add broth a little bit at a time while stirring constantly, helping loosen and dissolve the starches on the surface of the grains into a rich, velvety sauce.  It's the exact opposite of pasta, where you leave the stuff alone while boiling so you don't accidentally knock all of the starch into the boiling water and end up with something the consistency of wadded Wonder Bread afterwards.  Also, you're controlling the cooking amount by adding broth gradually, so you don't end up with an overly runny or dry risotto at the end.  Here, look at this:

This is a close-up wheat starch molecules from here, stained with iodine so you can see it better.  Picture these cells packed all around things like oats and rice, and essentially forming the entirety of pasta.  When exposed to water, these cells will swell and burst.  And when that happens, smaller particles in the starch (amylose) want to get out, party, and let it all hang out.

So now you've got these amylose bits swimming around, and they're long chains that unravel and get all caught up on each other, like a bunch of christmas light strands in a box despite your best efforts to the contrary.  They form a kind of web that makes for a rich, creamy texture that's, well, it's just great.  So do stir your risotto, and don't stir your pasta.  Shamelessly reproduced from here, by the way.

Steel-Cut Oat Risotto with Chicken, Red Peppers, and Manchego

Cooking Light, March 2005

Yield:  4 servings (serving size: 1 cup)

• 2 (14-ounce) cans fat-free, less-sodium chicken broth
• 2 teaspoons olive oil
• 3/4 cup finely chopped onion
• 1 large red bell pepper, chopped
• 1 1/4 cups steel-cut oats
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1 cup chopped cooked dark meat chicken
• 1/2 cup (2 ounces) shredded Manchego cheese
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
• 1/2 teaspoon salt

Gather and prepare all of your ingredients.  Bring broth to a simmer in a medium saucepan (do not boil). Keep warm.

The setup.

Here's what I took 'finely chopped' to mean.  Is that diced?  Maybe, but at least its uniform.

Heat oil in a medium sauté pan over medium heat.  Add the onion and bell pepper, and sauté for 5 minutes (don't brown).  Add the oats and cook 2 minutes, stirring constantly.  The goal is to coat the oats in the fat in the pan, and get them toasted slightly.  

Saute vegetables over medium heat, with the heated broth ready and in arm's reach

Toss the grains in the oil before deglazing.  Without supervision, this will burn like a marshmallow over an open fire.

Now to deglaze.  Stir in the white wine and cook for 2 minutes or until nearly absorbed, stirring constantly.  For me, this took about 20 seconds.

Look closely at what's going on here.  That liquid is boiling aggressively, yanking all of the little flavor bits off the pan while you stir.  And as the liquid evaporates, its flavor becomes more concentrated too.  This is deglazing.

Add the broth, 1/2 cup at a time, stirring until each portion of broth is absorbed before adding the next (about 20 minutes in total).  Keep stirring!  Towards the end this may stick, so be careful.

Here's what my risotto looked like when I felt it was done

How do you know when it's done?  Well, a little trick I learned in cooking class was this - taste your food!  Get a spoon, and put some in your mouth.  Does it feel like eating pebbles?  If not, then you might be onto something.  When you feel like it's done, turn off the heat and pull the pan to another burner.  Stir in the chicken, cheese, rosemary, and salt, and serve immediately.

Stir in the cheese, chicken, and rosemary off the heat

Serve with a nice piece of bread and a refreshing beverage